A lot of travellers enter Croatia through Split airport and basically jump on a boat / ferry / bus and leave to head down the coast while never spending any time in Split itself. Most traveller’s are in such a race to get down to Dubrovnik that they forget to explore other areas of Croatia. I decided to put two of Croatia’s cities head to head – Split vs Dubrovnik.
Whenever I tell anyone that I’m off to Croatia for a holiday, people naturally assume that I’m heading off to Dubrovnik and how lucky I am as it looks so beautiful. I should probably clear this up now; most of my holidays I head down the Dalmatian coastline and stay with my family in a little village called Zivogosce where I enjoy my time with my family, soak up some sunshine, gain a few kilos and do a day trip or two around Croatia.
So let’s get this Split vs Dubrovnik fight started!
Split
For me Split is my favourite city in Croatia. There is something breath taking about arriving into Split airport as you normally get an aerial view of Split and the surrounding coast line which is just breathtaking and you haven’t even landed into the city yet.
Diocletian’s Palace is the centre of the old town; where you can wander around the underground complex, shop in the market stalls within the Palace or have a coffee in the evening while enjoying the palatial views.
On our first visit in 2001, I remember there were musicians playing in the evening and you could sit down at tables and enjoy a drink in the Palace area. This is still the case and there is a summer festival which is held each year with ballet and opera performances which uses the Palace as it’s back drop.
What I find really charming about Split is that it still has it’s various markets dotted around the town where you can buy local lavender from Hvar, lace and olive oil just to name a few things. There are local artists selling their paintings in the little passages dotted around the town.
The Riva has changed since my first visit in 2001 and I know that the locals didn’t like the changes that were made as it was to generally to please the cruise ship passengers as they didn’t like seeing the old fishing boats moored on the Riva.
Dubrovnik
The Pearl of the Adriatic is how Dubrovnik is often described in most tourist brochures these days; however on my last visit I have to admit that the Pearl has become a fake Pearl and very much like Disneyland for the cruise ship passengers that crowd the city every day.
Visiting Dubrovnik in 2001, it was stunning, the old town was still recovering from the Balkan war, there were missing tiles on the buildings and only a small number of tourists. There were shops in the old town selling all the items you would need to live in the Old Town and you could feel the spirit of the old town. In 2003, a lot had changed for the better to protect the Old Town.
I went back with a friend in 2009 and I was disappointed with Dubrovnik, it had become a mass tourist black hole where you were served bad food at horrendous prices, the shops in the old town were full of tourist tat that nobody wanted and it felt like that the heart and soul of Dubrovnik had been lost and replaced with what tourists wanted rather than being a functioning old town where the locals still lived and breathed.
If you are visiting Dubrovnik, make sure you take your credit cards as you will need them. This area of Croatia is truly expensive.
Don’t get me wrong, Dubrovnik is stunning and if you’re going to walk around the city walls try and do this as late in the afternoon as possible as there will be less tourists and also the light is so much better plus I don’t think there is a better spot in Croatia to watch the sun set. Just don’t forget to take your camera.
I do love Dubrovnik however I don’t love what has become of Dubrovnik. I have read that they’re trying to limit the amount of cruise ships entering Dubrovnik each day which is going to be a start however they still have a lot more work to do to get Dubrovnik’s soul back.
Split vs Dubrovnik
Don’t dismiss Split as an entry and exit point; spend a night in Split at least and wander around the Palace area and check out the local markets which are delightful. You won’t be disappointed. It’s an area where the locals and the tourists mingle happily together. I have my 24 Hour Guide to Split to help you get the best out of the city.
Do visit Dubrovnik however my advice would be to do a day trip to the old town as this is a more enjoyable way of seeing the city and will save you many pennies!
xx
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